A Sunday in Summer: Asagaya

August is Obon, fireworks and barbecues by stream and sea. It is also ghosts, sudden cooling downpours reminiscent of a negligent plant owner suddenly remembering to water his plants, and men in yukata... especially men in yukata.
And here I am, with my usual sense of timing, searching for places, plans and discounted tickets that would allow me to see everyone, have a bit of solo travel time, and not cost an arm and a leg... during one of the busiest travel times of the year.

Currently I am trying to figure out how to use the 3 day JR Kanto pass (which can be purchased by anyone with a non-Japanese passport, even if you have a visa!) to the best advantage, to hit up Karuizawa, perhaps Nagano, perhaps Shimoda, and then get myself to Nasu for a couple days of glorious Tochigi-ness... aah, the joy of norihoudai train tickets!

But enough of that, and onwards with yukata and festivals, specifically the Asagaya Tanabata Festival, with its crazy papier-mache constructions and flying takoyaki (ok, so the flying takoyaki were my own fault... that will teach me to ever wear white anywhere... and thank goodness I took pictures earlier!)

The giant alpaca and collection of crazy kitties were my favorite. Like all Tokyo festivals it was pretty crowded, but the bright colours and tasty treats made up for it (and I  learned a valuable lesson about how to get takoyaki sauce out of a white yukata). The shoutengai where the festival was held is very long, and full of interesting little stores, including a shamisen shop and a Baskin Robbins (or '31', as it is known here). I have not had BR since the age of 9, and decided it was time for a rapprochement (the Love Potion 31 flavour is amazing!).

Once the crowding got to be too much, we escaped for a couple glasses of sangria at a strange little place called Don Tsucchi, which may well be one of the narrowest 'watalian' (Wa plus Italian) joints I have ever been in. And it turned out to be the perfect place to watch my favorite part of August stroll by (aka the afore-mentioned yukata-clad gentlemen), to the amusement of the one sitting next to me.

Because, seriously, I have yet to see a guy who doesn't suddenly get a coolness upgrade by slipping on a yukata. That is the glorious thing about national costumes, they are meant to fit and flatter the basic body type of that country. The wide sleeves broaden shoulders, obi nip in waists and hug the fabric in all the right places. Geta (for those who know how to walk in them) give a bit of a swagger. And good lord does Matcha-kun look good in wafuku... now I just have to convince him to try a hakama...

A Sunday in Spring: Nishiogikubo and Kouenji

It seems odd to take pictures of sakura. Their frilly, tulle-like appearance and short blossoming time are supposed to remind us of the brevity of youth and life, and all that terribly wabi sabi stuff. Somehow taking a gazillion pictures of the pink fluffiness seems to defeat that purpose... but hey, I'm going to do so anyway!

In a bid to get away from the crowds of Nakameguro, Ueno and Shinjuku, I found out about a minor sakura covered park in Nishiogikubo, about 20 minutes away from the station. Due to a combination of moving around, bad weather and other issues, I have not had a decent hanami in over 4 years, and was looking forward to stretching out under a tree and enjoy the sun and pinkness of it all.

Who knew that Nishiogi would turn out to be my spiritual home? The area somehow manages to combine my favourite aspects of Shimokitazawa, the Ebisu-Daikanyama-Nakameguro triangle and Azabu, while still being laid-back, quiet and completely unpretentious. Rent and food are cheap (yes, I look at apartment prices wherever I go, its a genetic thing), and yet it is superclose to Shinjuku... in a couple years I may well move over there, after getting my fill of East Tokyo.

The walk to and from Zempukuji Park is lovely, as the area is filled with antique stores, family run businesses and houses with beautifully tended gardens. Despite arriving after noon, we got a spot right under a tree, next to the lake... anyone who has done hanami in a major city will understand how rare an occurence this is! The atmosphere was relaxed, but not rowdy, and there was even a bunch of musicians jamming nearby. The park is actually kind of odd, as it seems to be a smaller version of Inokashira Park, but much less crowded.

After hanami, browsing through a kimono store (more on that later) and exploring the opposite side of the station, it was definitely time for dinner, a few stops over in Kouenji. My hanami companion heard about Sempre Pizza by chance, and thank any-deity-present he did! The glorious spread below (Quattro Formaggi and Sicilian pizzas, and an order of zeppoline) was 1010 yen. All of it. Yes, there is a god. The pizzas start at 280 yen, and are all well-below 1000yen. Seriously, if you are in the area, go. Leave space for dessert, as wandering down the colorfully cramped streets there are tons of choices for other cheap nibbles.

And finally: NEW KIMONO! Which is not only in my size, silk and well-priced, but most importantly, not black or grey! Hurrah!