Sunday in Style: Nezu Museum

To tell the truth, lately things have been a bit tough for Ms. Godzilla. 

Nothing life threatening, but my confidence has been shaken and am not feeling quite like myself (whoever that may be).

When these things happen, I find two things very helpful to get some perspective: going somewhere beautiful and taking on a slightly different persona.

Hence, last weekend's trip to the Nezu Museum (which is near Aoyama, not Nezu). The art collection is mainly Asian artifacts, displayed in a few small galleries. While certainly pretty, they are no match for the extraordinary gardens. 

The Japanese gardens are filled with bright green momiji, which conceal a wealth of interesting statues and traditional teahouses (including one in a small boat, how exquisitely iki). The purple iris' were in full bloom, and the whole ensemble was simply breathtaking.  

As for the different persona, putting on a kimono is one of the fastest ways to accomplish that. You need to walk straight-backed, at a stately speed, with the long shoulders of a murderous queen... it certainly gives me  boost (it also helps that one also gets complimented by passing strangers.)

Hidden Tokyo: Ookurayama Bairin

This year spring has decided to sprint on rapidly. I am just getting over the plum tree overload, and the sakura are already begging for our collective attention.

Once again my beloved Ookurayama reveals its secrets, in this case a lovely little forest of plum trees (bairin). Since it is a kind of odd spot, the crowds are relatively sparse, making it easy to get a seat under a nice, fragrant tree. On a stage in the background (draped in the traditional red and white stripes), musicians and local music students play a series of traditional Japanese instruments.

 I love the bright reddish-pink ones the most, but they also happen to be the hardest to find...and are always surrounded by photographers!

 

After a pleasant rest on the park, we decided to finish off the day on true hanami style, getting sushi at a place right in front of the station. Basic, but I really reccomend their wasabi maki, which are oddly addictive (and sinus clearing!)

Despite moving into spring, my wardrobe seems to be in monochrome recently (except for bright red lipstick). If done correctly it can be a look with a lot if dramatic impact, and very useful in a profession where you want people to remember you. Although in my case it also has something to do with trends on Italian fashion (all of these are new clothes purchased during my trip home!)

But that's fine, I shall leave the pastels to the sakura!

Ume and Sakura

It seems that during my week in Italy (which I will discuss soon) spring has finally arrived! Thank the kami, it was time.

With spring comes a switch of wardrobe, both normal and wafuku. To tell the truth, as much as I adore looking at kimono, I have no interest in those patterned with sakura. I am not a sakura girl, voluble, delicate and short lived.

I will always go for matsu, momiji or ume. I am definitely more of an ume type: bright, hardy and persistent.

I mean seriously, do these look like sakura nails to you? 

Weekends of Excitement, Weekends of Illness

Karma seems to have caught up with me. After going 'woohoo, I am super healthy', my immune system has decided to teach me a lesson. First labyrinthitis and now a 38.6 °C fever and sore throat. Right in the middle of peak business season too *sigh*

 

But before all this medical drama, I got to do a few of my favorite things.Matcha-kun invited me to one of his group's smancy dinners, and then to a Mozart concert as well.  Getting all dressed up for fancy events and dinner is always fun. Recently I have been working on moving towards a more vintage look, and my new faux-fur swing coat is the cat's pajamas.

I then spent Saturday in Nasu with Hippy-chan and Nats-chan, running around taking pictures in the snow, checking out vintage stores and going to an awesome onsen in the mountains. Not only did it have a (cough) unusual bit of decor near the entrance, but we got to soak in the hot water while also being snowed on. So cool.

We were supposed to go skiing the next day, and I had been looking forward to it for weeks. But of course, despite the weather being perfect, my immune decided that it was the right time to break down, so I left early. Le sad. Now to go drink another liter of Pocari...

For the Love of Layers

The morning air outside of my comforter is taking on an edge, a warning sign of the cold mornings to come. It makes the extra 5 minutes I give myself before getting out of bed, all curled up in a ball of warmth, even more delicious.

 

But I shouldn't complain too much, as after getting out of bed there is the exciting opportunity to get decked out in fall fashion, layering to my heart's content. Fall is a procession of awesome jackets, swinging light coats, chunky accessories and bright colours.

 It is also the perfect season for kimono. No sweating from the heat in summer, or freezing your toes off in the winter, but a perfect balance between layers (again!) of silk and unusual stoles. The lower angle of the autumn sun reflects off the gold and silver of the obi, and lights up the cream colours from within.

 

Autumn on the Ginza

Trying to use up as many of my annual vacation days as possible before I lose them, I got myself a four day weekend, woohoo!

Friday afternoon in central Tokyo is a completly different experience from going on the weekend. After saying hello to Wave-chan and having a quick lunch at Paul Bassett in Shinjuku (pancakes count as lunch, right?), I went off to Ginza to find a new, autumn-appropriate obi for my concert in November. I had a rigid budget of under 6000 yen, but for anyone who can go up to 20000-30000 yen, the choices are endless! I had to drag myself away from a hand-sewn silk obi with the most gorgeous magenta carnations... perhaps another time? With an unusually high density of hostesses and mamas, Ginza is one of the best places to go looking for high quality wafuku at decent prices.

Without the thousands of shoppers who descend like vultures on the weekend, strolling around Ginza is extremely pleasant. I rather enjoy the slightly passe', Bubble era feel of the stores and architecture, and the long broad avenues lined with various temptations (omg,the Furla store!!!). Interestingly, weekday afternoons seem to be the time for pregnant women to hang out there, as they were absolutely everywhere I went. Taking a brief rest in a MosCafe (with a semi-decent, if tiny, chestnut cupcake for company) those of us unencumbered were outnumbered three to one!

Oh, and the obi? I found one for about 5000 yen, a rather bold and unusual pattern from the 80's. I got it at Tansuya,  a chain of kimono recyling stores. They are great if you want to put together a look on the cheap, and are are not too picky. If you want something really special though, check out the various vintage shops on the second floor of Ginza Five.

I love walking through Tokyo in this weather, cool enough for long sleeves and boots, without having to cover up my outfit with a coat. I hope everyone is enjoying fall, wherever you may be :)

A Sunday in Summer: Asagaya

August is Obon, fireworks and barbecues by stream and sea. It is also ghosts, sudden cooling downpours reminiscent of a negligent plant owner suddenly remembering to water his plants, and men in yukata... especially men in yukata.
And here I am, with my usual sense of timing, searching for places, plans and discounted tickets that would allow me to see everyone, have a bit of solo travel time, and not cost an arm and a leg... during one of the busiest travel times of the year.

Currently I am trying to figure out how to use the 3 day JR Kanto pass (which can be purchased by anyone with a non-Japanese passport, even if you have a visa!) to the best advantage, to hit up Karuizawa, perhaps Nagano, perhaps Shimoda, and then get myself to Nasu for a couple days of glorious Tochigi-ness... aah, the joy of norihoudai train tickets!

But enough of that, and onwards with yukata and festivals, specifically the Asagaya Tanabata Festival, with its crazy papier-mache constructions and flying takoyaki (ok, so the flying takoyaki were my own fault... that will teach me to ever wear white anywhere... and thank goodness I took pictures earlier!)

The giant alpaca and collection of crazy kitties were my favorite. Like all Tokyo festivals it was pretty crowded, but the bright colours and tasty treats made up for it (and I  learned a valuable lesson about how to get takoyaki sauce out of a white yukata). The shoutengai where the festival was held is very long, and full of interesting little stores, including a shamisen shop and a Baskin Robbins (or '31', as it is known here). I have not had BR since the age of 9, and decided it was time for a rapprochement (the Love Potion 31 flavour is amazing!).

Once the crowding got to be too much, we escaped for a couple glasses of sangria at a strange little place called Don Tsucchi, which may well be one of the narrowest 'watalian' (Wa plus Italian) joints I have ever been in. And it turned out to be the perfect place to watch my favorite part of August stroll by (aka the afore-mentioned yukata-clad gentlemen), to the amusement of the one sitting next to me.

Because, seriously, I have yet to see a guy who doesn't suddenly get a coolness upgrade by slipping on a yukata. That is the glorious thing about national costumes, they are meant to fit and flatter the basic body type of that country. The wide sleeves broaden shoulders, obi nip in waists and hug the fabric in all the right places. Geta (for those who know how to walk in them) give a bit of a swagger. And good lord does Matcha-kun look good in wafuku... now I just have to convince him to try a hakama...

Summer in the City

 As blistering hot as it can sometimes be, there is just something about summer. The warm evenings are perfect for chilling with my sharemates or for walks in the friendly darkness, punctuated by the bon odori drums. People seem more relaxed, even those of us who continue to work... although I must say business distinctly peters out in July and August.

The utter bliss of stretching out in the breeze, windows wide open and curtains billowing, occasionally setting off the little furin (wind chime) with its supposedly cooling sound. Hidden amongst the rooftops of Tokyo's skyline there are terrace cafes and bars, where for the price of a mojito and a small dish of olives you can spend a few hours watching the sunset, while listening (in the case of the rather un-imaginitively named The Bar in Daikanyama) to running water and live music coming from the stage inside.

The chance to wear bright, billowy dresses which dance in the early evening breeze, and watch as the boys stare in awe as I float by (a tangerine dress and deep neckline will get you attention anywhere). All my hard work at the gym and running are now really apparent, and I want to show off a bit, darn it!

Yukata all around, and a seeming increase in the number of men wearing them (yay!). I really want to go hang out at a festival or fireworks display, get all dressed up in my own yukata and eat far too many takoyaki! Somehow, despite being in Ningyocho on the same evening, I managed to completely miss out on the Sumidagawa fireworks... It wasn't until we went into a great, organic tempura place (it is just around the corner from the station's A4 exit) that we were informed we had missed the big event, which also explained why so many people were running around in yukata!

Don't you just love summer evenings? 

Dazzle

I sometimes feel like a dichotomy, because if possible, I would spend half of my time swathed in high tech workout gear (oh spandex, my love) and the other half in evening wear. Everything in between is really not as interesting...

Unfortunately, I can think of only a few lifestyles for which this is possible (trophy wife, hostess, beauty pageant contestant) and none appeal. Kind of a pity, I have the perfect shape for highly structured evening gowns... a girl can dream, right?

Anyhooo, returning to reality. Everyone deserves a bit of dazzle from time to time... especially if it is inexpensive!

My favorite nail style is this dipped-in-gold look. When I lived in London my awesome nailist came up with several different variations on this style, and I had them on heavy rotation. I am currently being the guinea pig (but a guinea pig with faaabulous nails) for a nailist-in-training, so it is cheap! For professional and koto-related reasons I cannot have overly long, heavily decorated nails, but somehow I only feel properly dressed if I have some shine on my hands... Man, have I acculturated or what? 笑

I have some issues finding shoes that not only fit, but that I also like. Everything in 25cm seems to be either earthmothery, grandmotherly, or just too plain for words. Thank god for Singapore and its huge expat community. I found these adorable creations in Bugis, and am very pleased. I mean really, there are bows on the bows!

The rainy season has begun, along with a slew of work events I have to organize, confirm, attend and generally fuss about. Hopefully there can also be some time for fun in there as well!

The problem with kimono

... is that there are no pockets! No matter how hard you try, it is simply not possible to stuff a camera into your obi (or at least do so in a way that does not make you look like Lumpy McLump).

Why not carry a bag, you say? Well, it is not iki. I truly believe there are few things more liberating and elegant than not carrying a bag. It shows that you do not require anything, your presence alone will ensure that everything shall be taken care of...

Of course, this is rarely possible, unless you are a Mitsubishi heiress! But, thanks to the obi, one can get away with something similar. A thin pochette, cellphone and fan all fit, and leave you looking wonderfully iki and unencumbered.

Due to a koto-related social appointment running long, I was unable to get changed before my movie date... you can well-imagine the results of showing up at Shibuya in full kimono! Nonetheless, the movie Momo he no Tegami (Letter to Momo) was beautifully done. The story takes place on a small island in the Seto Inland Sea, an incredibly beautiful area near Shikoku of which I have fond memories. Very Ghibli-esque (unsurprisingly), and the yokai characters are totally adorable!

                     

But what does ANY of this have to do with cameras?

As a giant photography snob, I am not a huge fan of pictures taken by smartphones (although I will admit Instagram can be very useful when on the road). They just do not do justice to my latest find, Hacienda del Cielo in Daikanyama. Hidden on the 10th floor of one of the average polished-looking buildings, the stunning decor and view completely blew us away. There is a huge terrace with a mixture of tables and couches, overlooking a view which stretches from Ebisu to Shinjuku. The inside is equally stunning, with a dramatic chandelier and bright mosaic. Despite all this, the food is surprisingly well-priced, with a series of little dishes for 300 yen (I recommend the frijoles)

With everyone around me getting hitched (eek!), I kept on thinking what an incredible location this would be for a party or reception... anyone getting married in Tokyo, take note!